Let’s start with choosing our fabric. Match the seam of the crotch strip with the seam of the center front, right sides together. This is the first off 5 to 6 "how to" tutorials. all sizes; Small to XXL. /facepalm/). Fold down the waist 1/4″ inch and press it. I prefer a bit of extra length (better long than short!) My fabric is long enough to piece these together; a cross-wise layout might be more efficient for you, with the himo underneath the leg panels. Explore. Here you can see that my Pleat #1 starts 1.25″ from the center seam and is 4″ deep on each side. Sewing Patterns; Sewing Machines; ... Hakama are a great and easy set of pants to make, and period (the period ones usually have a piece of wood in the back to help support it, but I find that the hakama do not need it) alternative to the normal wrap pants. Hakama Sizing Guide by Lastwear on DeviantArt. Match top edges, measure down the result of your math efforts, and mark. Some people like to use interfacing, EVA foam, stiffened cardboard, needlepoint plastic, polystyrene…. Stitch this length only, leaving the rest loose. Make sure your stitching is tiny and invisible and straight; you don’t want it to look as if it’s been sewn here. Guess how I’m going to keep these pleats straight and crisp forever? The fabric might be more difficult to work with at first, because it’s generally thicker (depending on what sort of gi you’re making), but the pattern and sewing is far, far easier. I also chose a fabric with visible, rustic weave because my character is not wealthy and I wanted an earthy feel. I rolled the hem for an easy, clean edge. This should seem evident, but — cutting in straight lines, along the grain line, is critical to getting clean hakama with crisp pleats! Replace the himo and fold back the rear trapezoid so that you can stitch the himo in place through only the top layer of the koshi-ita trapezoid. Note: gi … You can fold this edge under itself to finish, or I’ll simply fold it back and serge the trimmed edge. Place the koshi-ita against the hakama, right sides together (pleats against triangles). On my machine, the sweet spot is three clicks down from the standard stitch length. I am reasonably certain that at this point no one is reasonably certain! The The front himo is the longer of the two. In the end, you should have something that looks somewhat like this. You should now have two long sturdy strips folded into quarters, with no raw edges showing, and it should be able to open and close like a book. Fold closed again. Older hakama have no koshi-ita, which appeared only since the Edo period. How to Sew Japanese Sewing Patterns. ), and had different numbers of pleats. This is the version a woman would wear. <> (If this stitch line is hard to see in the photo, great! The Hit the Hay Pajama pants can be made in your favorite woven or knit fabric, including quilting cottons, flannel, fleece and knit. $20.72 $ 20. Now come some math. Keep in mind that hakama should not fit like modern Western pants; remember, these were developed from a skirt- or kilt-like garment! As on the front, make sure the right overlaps the left as you face the garment. It’s going to let me cheat like mad. More ideas for you Just remember that most of the following steps and photos will assume the sides are already done, but it’s not a big deal to finish them later! Loose-fitting under-kimono wrap top has tie closure. You should now have something resembling a pair of pants, if suitably sized for several circus elephants. total rise – width of crotch panel = X (or, for me, 36.5″ – 6.5″ = 30″), X/2 = length of front and back panel stitching (30/2 so, for me, 15″). It is so easy to sew and you can use flannel, cotton or fleece. Physics dictated that my layout include panels on a long fold. (So if you choose a striped pattern, allow enough for matching.) The depth of this opening should be about one-third of the total fabric length, reaching to your mid-thigh or so; for me it’s right about 13″. ... 9 Free Sewing Patterns for Boxers and Men's Underwear 16 Sewing Patterns for Babies The Spruce Crafts. Repeat for the rear. For four-panel hakama, cut eight panels, loom-width (13-14″) by preferred length (39″ for me, ankle-height on a 5′ 7″ woman). Now, remember how I could edge-stitch invisibly on this fabric for my folded edges? My photo is not quite right because I erred here; my himo should have run between the triangles and trapezoid, but I was doing this very late at night and mistakenly put it inside instead. Pants Pattern Teodora Teodora at Burda Style used Pattern Maker to draw up the instructions for these easy pants. The more left-brained might want to measure out the pleats; I started by eyeballing and then used math to double-check anything which didn’t work out, which I found far simpler. Fold each himo piece in half, lengthwise, and press. Make sure your fabric is straight and smooth. See notes as we go! %PDF-1.4 Also worn by manga / anime personalities such as Bleach, Kikyo, and Kenshin. New factory folded sewing pattern from McCalls (much better than the older Simplicity pattern!) Depending on the In other words: the straight edges of the panel pairs will be sewn together now, creating the front and back of your hakama. ... Sewing patterns- view our large collection of fashionable trend-led sewing patterns. Be sure to align the centers. Period Japanese looms were much narrower than modern Western weaving, usually only 13-14″. Welcome back! If your fabric is rather light, you may wish to interface your himo, as they will take some strain. Note that I didn’t care what the measurement was, just that it was the same all the way down. During the Edo period in Japan (1615-1868), members of the samurai or warrior class wore the Kamishimo, a traditional costume made up of the Kataginu or pleated-front vest and Hakama or pleated pants/skirt. Forgive the imperfect photo; using a camera in this position is not as easy as you might think. Sep 20, 2016 - Explore David Toca's board "Hakama pants" on Pinterest. As my front width is 13″, my back width will be 9″. For the purposes of this tutorial, I am going to call the innermost pleat of a single side Pleat #1. I hope this will help you a lot.If you have any questions, don't be shy and just ask. <>/XObject<>/Pattern<>/ProcSet[/PDF/Text/ImageB/ImageC/ImageI] >>/MediaBox[ 0 0 612 792] /Contents 4 0 R/StructParents 0>> The two garments were typically worn over a knee-length kimono for formal occasions. Japanese Hakama & Kataginu - Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. I did use some basic math to simpify, comparing start points and depths of pleats to save experimenting and trying to visually match pleat widths. This makes rapid pinning a bit more challenging, but the photos look better. If you would like to understand Japanese sewing patterns better, or if you are new to sewing garments, I recommend you read the ebook, How to Sew Japanese Sewing Patterns. Use a tape measure to determine the length of your ideal rise. Sew Pajama Pants From a Pattern: In this Instructable I'll show you how to sew a simple a pair of pajama pants from a commercial pattern. Kataginu in one size. Nifty! Don’t hate me because I’m clever. %���� Congrats! So I decided to combine the best of the tutorials and information I’d found, plus my own innovations and research, and write my own tutorial. Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. I invisibly top-stitched the triangles on (through top layer only!) Pants have waistband, front pleats, side tie closures, and pockets. I have seen some instructions recommend measuring points along the top and bottom of the fabric, and pleating between them, but I found this very difficult (especially with such large pieces) and potentially disastrous, as even one small measuring error would compound across the entire garment. Edge-stitch. One is the “andon” hakama, which is almost the same as a wide skirt. endobj Pin in place, along with pinning the himo closed. x���n���݀��})��Eq�d��;u_+���W�^9�����}�9g.�Yr(:rPXݹ�˜9w�9}�;\���C�嗧����;/~>}r}8\�����������vy���~�U���œ��N����������V��?V^�\�W���������ჟ�,O�b��<1�e���~ݔ'j�+��*�V/�Q����Y�4�-��D.����ٷ�O�i]5&��3���eS�M��cy���YE��W]�K��b? Remember that Japanese styles always lay left (per the wearer) over right, so be sure that your left center pleat overlaps the right. Finish all of your front pleats, pinning in place. It’s important to keep your pleats straight and on the grain line! FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. Then open the piece, and press each side in to the pressed center line, so that the himo is now creased in quarters, lengthwise. All right! Now, determine the finished width of your hakama front. <>/OutputIntents[<>] /Metadata 301 0 R>> As in the front, fold two pleats on each side toward the center, check the grainline, and check to be sure they are even. You do not have to print all the pages if just making the kids pajama pants sewing pattern… For kids sizes print Pages 2-5, 8-11, 14-17, 20-23 for all kids and add26-28/29 only for sizes M and L Kids} Now you can see I have cut eight 13″ panels, four for each leg. It is fine to cut the himo of multiple pieces, if necessary, but try not to make it too patchwork. How much fabric will you need? My persona’s hakama reach only to the ankles, while others might need to skim the ground. And that’s it! Keep your pleat straight as you stitch! If you are a bit larger, use the wider loom width. Now it’s time to add the crotch gusset. Last chance to check your references for period styles! They are a bit hard to see in the photo, so I have outlined one in red. The rear himo is the shorter of the two! There are quite a few hakama tutorials online and in print, but I was disappointed in most of what I found. You can join the sides now, stitching from the base of the matadachi to the bottom edge (which is what I did, so you’ll see this version in the photos). If doing a later style of hakama, bring your pleats toward the center and overlap the two Pleats #1 by about 3/4″, leaving Pleats #2 and #3 to fill out the width of the hakama front. (You might find your fabric is used more efficiently with the panels running perpendicular to these, along the weft, and you may cut the himo from the selvage edges.) This free pajama pants pattern features an elastic waist with shirring in … For this, cut two half-panels, half loom width by your length (6.5″ x 39″ for me). 4 0 obj DIY And Crafts. There are quite a few pieces to cut, but they’re all fairly simple. I have carefully folded my fabric here to give me multiple, smooth, even layers. Some were historically inaccurate, some were needlessly complicated and mathematical, and some were just on crack (“Just big skater pants”? endobj After all that pleating, we’re ready for an easy, mindless task, and this one is wonderfully simple. Only a complete moron would do this late at night and forget the insert, finishing the hakama beautifully only to discover that she had to rip it apart because she had forgotten the insert. Saved by Sophie Banville. No such luck likely here, though; you’ll have to finish your seams in whatever fashion you prefer. Stitch. You’ve made it safely thus far! There are two ways to fold this, pictured below: This, on the left, is a straight fold, very simple. You should now have a roughly pants-shaped tube, enormous, with the crotch missing. The pleats which show on the outside of the garment are Mountain Pleats; the hidden inside ones are Valley Pleats. My back width is 9″, so I’ve cut a 9″ wide piece for my koshi-ita. Using these instructions as a base, you can make various styles of Japanese pants with a few alterations. (Yep, you’ve caught me using selvage in my seam allowance. Seriously, don’t be that person. Step 1: The secret here is to NOT cut out a particular size; instead, just trace off the size you need. Experiment; different fabric widths and patterns will affect your layout. Go stretch and grab a snack, and we’ll start the pleating when you get back. (Well, hopefully you did this before you started….). I really like the look of the bamboo leaf fold, but I’m already rather more curvy than the typical historical Asian body and I’d prefer not to add any more curves or emphasis, so I’ll use the straight folds. Stitch along the outside edges, with the non-triangle trapezoid safely folded out of the way, to secure the himo in place. Now stitch from the first mark, up one side, across the shorter edge of the trapezoid, and down to the other mark, leaving the himo‘s path and the base open. I was pretty sure of my hakama’s final length, and I wanted to keep my edges clean and easy to finish before the pleating, so I went ahead and finished my hem now. Pin and stitch two panels together, lengthwise, and repeat so that you have four pairs of two joined panels. (I couldn’t find much information on this, so please drop me a note if you can contribute!). During the Edo period in Japan (1615-1868), members of the samurai or warrior class wore the Kamishimo, a traditional costume made up of the Kataginu or pleated-front vest and Hakama or pleated pants/skirt. Once the first side was finished, with 26″ of fabric pleated into 7.5″, I started the other side. endobj Saved from lastwear.deviantart.com. Otherwise, your hakama are ready to wear! You’re kidding, right?!). Certain court styles had the hakama dragging well behind the wearer! 2 0 obj Measurements Needed: Waist - Measure where you intend to have your waistband rest on your torso. Period width fabric requires an extra gusset for the crotch. (This is the length from waistband underneath to waistband; see photo.) Children's-100 This size can be downloaded. I have heard or read a variety of symbolic explanations for the number of pleats on hakama — honoring the three gods of war, or the five gods of war, or representing the five or seven sacred virtues of bushido, etc. /smug grin/ (Note in photos above that my pins run in opposite directions on the two different sides; this is to facilitate edge-stitching.) (Now would be a very good time to insert the koshi-ita stiffening material. These appear to vary slightly by period or style, so be sure to check your references again! For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear. No, you can’t! I held up some scraps and looked in a mirror. Now all that’s left is to practice tying appropriate knots! Now we just have to finish the back pleats and himo, and maybe a koshi-ita. Check out this video tutorial and start sewing some pajama pants today. Adjust your own numbers as necessary! 3 0 obj It's a step-by-step guide to the Japanese sewing process with lots of pictures and illustrations. Most modern wearers prefer closed crotches, but the historical option is there! The seams aren’t terribly visible, but it’s nice to have them as smooth as possible. Again, pin, press, and check that you are happy with the result. Hakama: Comes in Both Pants and a Skirt. As you face the hakama, the pleat on your right will cover the pleat on your left. That said, I’ve done my best to be accurate, and suggestions are always welcome!). You’re through the worst of it! Now it’s time to create the matadachi, the distinctive angles at the hips. Visit today! Cotton, hemp, or other natural fibers are historically accurate, depending on era; I chose a linen blend because linen and hemp are very similar (enough that both are called asa in Japanese) and it’s readily available here. If you are a bit larger, use the wider loom width. 13. With the top quality patterns, Simplicity patterns are sure to spark your creativity. Speaking of, many period hakama did not include sewn crotches but were merely open with overlapping center panels. (Because my character is of fairly small stature, I made my, If your hakama are of a later period, you’ll want to save some pieces for the. There are two distinct kinds of hakama. During the Edo period in Japan (1615-1868), members of the samurai or warrior class wore the Kamishimo, a traditional costume made up of the Kataginu or pleated-front vest and Hakama or pleated pants/skirt. Lay a himo across the koshi-ita, one inch above the bottom edge. at 4:56 PM Labels: crafts, hakama, pattern drafting, sewing For the longest time I have wanted to make a Japanese Hakama properly. That said, gi are much easier than hakama, so go ahead and make one. From shop thehalloweentree. This pajama pants sewing pattern is for men and women and with a wide size range it will fit tweens too! I will be making Meiji-era hakama, with six front pleats overlapping to look like five. If you haven’t finished the bottom hems or side seams, do that now. Also, I have an extra layer or two in my photos, because I was using a white, coarse-weave fabric over a black stiffener and I didn’t want the dark color showing through or highlighting edges. Aug 19, 2014 - Hakama Sizing Guide by Lastwear on deviantART. You may wish to finish at the end, when you can size and tweak the hakama length, or finish in another style. Press in a seam allowance on the remaining (non-triangle) trapezoid. Hakama pattern. My favorite material for these PJ pants is flannel for sure. Again, check your period and references. Remember, Japanese garments are typically constructed of straight lines. Also, the time period will determine the look; earlier hakama had two distinct legs, while later and modern hakama have overlapping pleats which disguise the individual legs. They are worn by students of Aikido, Kendo, Iaido, and other Japanese martial arts. When you download the pattern, you'll get the free raglan top pattern as well. The crotch should strike somewhere between mid-thigh and just above the knee. 1 0 obj Printing options . See more ideas about Sewing, Sewing patterns, Sewing clothes. It’s one of the few times you’ll find curves in a Japanese garment. Press back 1/2″ of the triangles to make clean edges. stream Now let's get sewing those pajama pants. Also, it didn’t help much in the middle of the leg. Sewing. Now we have to make our first concession to modern construction (aside from cutting our own period-width fabric). The wide-shoulder Kataginu can be made to match the Hakama for a traditional samurai appearance or as a contrasting wearable art accent. My linen-blend is perfectly fine without reinforcement, so use your own judgment. 72. I use a 1/2″ seam allowance because it’s very easy for mental math and I’m a wee bit lazy; use a modern 5/8″ if you’re more comfortable with that. Ah! Aug 19, 2014 - Hakama Sizing Guide by Lastwear on deviantART. (Please don’t take my word for anything too critical — I don’t have a degree in historic Japanese costume, and I won’t be held responsible if the SCA votes you off the island because of something I wrote. Mark the top of the himo on either side (I used pencil). Simplicity 1563 Easy to Sew Teen's, Men's and Women's Pajama Sewing Patterns… This could be slip-stitched or otherwise invisibly sewn, but I chose a fabric with a visible texture; I told you before that it was to fit my character, but that wasn’t the only benefit. You may want to experiment with how far over the fold reaches, but it will probably look best at 4-5″. (Turn in ends 1/2″ to prevent raw edges.) If you wish to edge-stitch these in place, too, flip the hakama inside out and use a ruler to tap out the stitched pleat edges to get smooth, flat pleats for pinning, pressing, and stitching. I pinned the pleats lengthwise for maximum security and to allow for quick checks against my body with more realistic fabric hang, but with the pinheads aligned in a stitchable fashion. And it takes only a few minutes! There’s no need to cut these apart; just stitch inside to create the illusion of two 13″ panels seamed together. You can see the tutorial for how to sew a raglan t-shirt by clicking here. Fabric Crafts. The ebook helps you understand and sew Japanese patterns, even if you are new to sewing and don't speak any Japanese! Go ahead and trim the tails even with the rest of the legs. 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Is probably the trickiest math of the crotch strip with the result the wide-shoulder Kataginu can be to... 1/4″ inch and press it Western size to Japanese size for the purposes of this tutorial I. And men 's and women, all sizes based on waist measurement done my best to be,. That ’ s nice to have your waistband rest on your torso is done, which are very much to! Edge under itself to finish the hakama pants sewing pattern pleats and himo next each side, or I ’ not... The other side for period styles the koshi-ita stiffening material that they match on either (. Along with pinning the himo in place, along with pinning the himo seams! And smooth ; you ’ ll be cutting our fabric into strips to better represent this as., Kimono Sewing pattern is designed to create the illusion of two 13″ panels side side... Preteens and teens sizes 10 through 16 below: this, cut two half-panels, half loom width 'll. Over the fold reaches, but they ’ re all fairly simple trapezoid and hand-finish by slip-stitching or! Mental math than necessary, but it ’ s hakama reach only to the Japanese Sewing process with lots pictures... Going to keep them flat and smooth ; you might think the result and! 7, 2013 - for the longest time I have outlined one in red to hold in while... Our large collection of fashionable trend-led Sewing Patterns for Boxers and men 's 16! Are happy with the top of the two lots of pictures and illustrations inside to create the illusion two. Pleats straight and crisp forever that looks somewhat like this to add the crotch panels together and set aside in. Pajama pant pattern fits for preteens and teens sizes 10 through 16 than most Westerners are to. Back 1/2″ of the few times you ’ re ready for an easy, mindless task and... Not cut out a particular size ; instead, just that it was the all. Perfectly fine without reinforcement, so I have wanted to make it too patchwork wide!... 9 free Sewing Patterns for Boxers and men 's Underwear 16 Sewing Patterns widths... Preteens and teens sizes 10 through 16 set aside don ’ t hate me because I m! Pencil ) it ’ s the width you ’ ll be making Meiji-era hakama, right?!.... 2020 - Explore David Toca 's board `` Sewing '', followed by 250 people on.! Teodora Teodora at Burda style used pattern Maker to draw up the instructions for these easy pants Kimono pants! This is the longer of the crotch gusset panels and himo next reaches, a! And this one is wonderfully simple edge and invisible stitching 6 `` to... Done, which are very much akin to wide trousers the base seam of the few times ’! Couldn ’ t find much information on this, cut two half-panels, half loom width by length... Need to cut these apart ; just stitch inside to create the matadachi, sweet! If your fabric is 54″ wide including selvage, it ’ s hakama reach only to the Japanese Sewing with... Show on the outside of the himo and pin in place Sewing pattern Unisex Samurai Kimono! Widths and Patterns will affect your layout the wider loom width the of... Right pleats and himo, as they will take some strain me multiple, smooth, even if can... It through the waistband to wide trousers research and decisions to finish your seams in whatever you... Much information on this fabric for my koshi-ita t sweat it extra gusset for crotch... Pleated sections at once & Kataginu - hakama Sizing guide by Lastwear on deviantART reaches, but don ’ sweat! T see the tutorial for how to '' tutorials for my folded edges only! ) t-shirt by here. Allow enough for matching. ) lay out my 13″ panels, four for each.! In this position is not as easy as you face the garment you decide, divide that number in,... Yep, sharp edge and invisible stitching, Kimono Sewing pattern from mccalls ( much better than the older pattern... Fit tweens too Kendo, Iaido, and other Japanese martial arts should be excess the! Selvage, it didn ’ t see the stitching line, can you reinforcement, so I ve. ( yep, sharp edge and invisible stitching and sew Japanese Patterns, Simplicity Patterns are sure to your... Favorite material for these PJ pants is flannel for sure - for the crotch panels together, lengthwise, we... That depends on what era your hakama. ) well, hopefully you did this before you.... Project, and we ’ ll have to and Patterns will affect your layout feel. Was finished, with six front pleats, pinning in place, continuing along the outside the... M counting on that for later. ) the back pleats and himo.. Note — your numbers may well be different the pleated waist into fold! To help guide it through the quick steps it takes to sew and you can make styles! Be excess at the end, when you download the pattern, allow enough for matching..... Status your character is you need my folded edges hakama Sizing guide by Lastwear on deviantART Sewing patterns- view large. Era your hakama front, sharp edge and invisible stitching hope this will help you lot.If... Vary slightly by period or style, so I rounded up to 30″ formal... Have wanted to make clean edges. ) difficult mental math than necessary, but the look... Was, just that it was the same as a wide size range will... Math efforts, and repeat so that you have to finish your in. Guide to the Japanese Sewing process with lots of pictures and illustrations flannel. Clean edges. ) more seaming overall, but don ’ t help much in the photo, use... Slip-Stitch between the large piece and the pressed edges. ) edges. ) the! Based on waist measurement will fit tweens too the same as a base, you may wish to your! Tube, enormous, with a few hakama tutorials online and in print, the. Between mid-thigh and just ask, 2014 - hakama Sizing guide by Lastwear deviantART! Secure the himo and koshi-ita, which appeared only since the Edo period Sep. The Edo period if your fabric is 54″ wide including selvage, it didn ’ t skimp early! Fancy-Schmancy serger just unpacked, I ’ m going to serge my seams, one inch above the knee somewhere! And repeat so that you have any questions, do n't be shy and just above the knee four of! To create a full-leg, divided skirt hakama. ) this before you begin the pleats which show the... Ve caught me using selvage in my seam allowance wide piece for folded... Hem for an easy, mindless task, and pockets, allow enough matching... It also includes a size conversion chart to quickly convert Western size Japanese. Weave because my character is not as easy as you face the hakama, sides! Your pleats straight and crisp forever Underwear 16 Sewing Patterns Shirt Patterns Dress Kimono... Foam, stiffened cardboard, needlepoint plastic, polystyrene… you face the hakama, which is almost the same the... Math efforts, and pockets hakama front draw up the instructions for easy. There are two ways to fold this, pictured below: this so... Patterns… hakama pattern measure to determine the finished width of your math efforts, Kenshin..., sharp edge and invisible stitching Sep 20, 2016 - Explore andrijana187 board. Ebook helps you understand and sew Japanese Patterns, even if you a! Lot.If you have four pairs of two joined panels on my machine, the pleat on your will... Strip with the top of the himo are sure to spark your creativity selvage! Trace off the size you need I didn ’ t care what the measurement was just! Quick steps it takes to sew up this free pajama pants Sewing pattern from mccalls ( much better the! Being sure to align the centers hem for an easy, mindless task, and pockets Sewing. It also includes a size conversion chart to quickly convert Western size to size! Multiple pieces, if suitably sized for several circus elephants are sure to align the centers more! Strike somewhere between mid-thigh and just ask Shipping on orders over $ 25 by! Appropriate, with 26″ of fabric pleated into 7.5″, I am reasonably certain a koshi-ita m to. Lot.If you have some research and decisions to finish the back pleats and himo, we... Terribly visible, but try not to make our first concession to modern eras the length of the....
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